Louis Vuitton’s F/W2023 Menswear Collection was that and more
Few luxury houses hit the sweet spot between retaining their rich heritage value and communicating with a new-age audience amped up by hype and modernity. Louis Vuitton is one of them. For Fall/ Winter 2023, the brand brought in KidSuper founder Colm Dillane known for his theatrical, playful take on high fashion to work alongside the atelier’s in-house Prêt-à-Porter Homme team. Add to that, French filmmakers and producers Michel and Olivier Gondry constructed a fantastical set made up of multiple rooms at the Cour Carrée du Louvre in Paris for the runway showcase that charted a man’s coming-of-age story. Grammy and Latin Grammy-winning artist Rosalía’s live performance only added to the spectacle.
The show was a cinematic prelude to a collection that fused mature tailoring with whimsical elements. Eclectic suiting with an oversized aesthetic; an entire suit and leather goods made of handwritten notes by the in-house team; exaggerated puffer jackets and structured trousers; computerised motifs on jumpers, emblazoned varsity jackets. Each piece designed by the Louis Vuitton Homme team and overseen by Dillane was made to exemplify every man’s mood, moments, and overall journey from childhood to adulthood.
Fall/Winter 2023 was especially noteworthy due to the fact that it was the first show outfitted post the passing of the legendary Virgil Abloh. Dillane no doubt had mighty shoes to fill, while ensuring that his own creative process came through. And he did just that, bringing in artistic flourishes and splashy colour with the vivacity and gender fluidity that made Abloh’s menswear so distinctive. At the same time, his use of motifs and techniques referencing television, film, cyberspace screens and cameras made the collection very much his own. The result was a potent mix of everything you’d expect from Louis Vuitton in the form of craftsmanship, next-level detail and rich leather goods as well as a nod to a younger audience and present-day living with digital footprints. A vibe that transcends trends and fashion seasons. Clothes that blend the old and new to wear today and keep in your closet forever.
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